Sarajevo

Sarajevo is the capital and the largest city of Bosnia and Herzegovina and also the capital of the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina entity, as well as the center of the Sarajevo Canton. Neither geographically expansive nor characteristic by large buildings, the city of Sarajevo retains a particular, arresting charm with its abundance of busy cafés and abiding tradition of hospitality. Sarajevo region has long been the cultural and political capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is a region that offers it all, from the excitement of the oriental capital city Sarajevo to one of the last primeval forests in Europe found in Sutjeska National Park to the east.

Sarajevo is famed for its tumultuous history and the city’s architecture expresses this beautifully; the Ottomans, the Austro-Hungarians, the Yugoslav wars and the unfortunate destruction of Sarajevo have all left their marks, making the city of Sarajevo one of the most interesting in Europe. The cultural, natural, and historical heritage of Sarajevo is certainly among the most fascinating in all of the Balkans – for it is here that the great eastern and western powers met and left their influences in this still largely unknown corner of the world.

Originally it was a tiny village square named Tornik, later Trgovište, Staro Trgovište, to be finally known as the Vrhbosna – the old estate of the Pavlovic family recorded in 1244. The Ottomans definitely conquered Vrhbosna sometime before 1450, when this settlement was renamed to Sarajevo. After the invasion, Turks have established a town and the large saraj /court/ beneath the settlement, after which /saraj/ Sarajevo got its name. But in 1878, after 400+ years of the Ottoman rule, Sarajevo became part of the Austria-Hungary Empire, practically overnight. This was a pretty dramatic change and brought a completely new style of architecture to the the city. Despite initial resistance, this era of Sarajevo history brought a lot of benefits. The Austrian-Hungarian Empire brought industry, better infrastructure and new technology to Sarajevo which became a sort of test-ground for innovations before they were rolled out in Vienna. Thanks to this Sarajevo became the first city in Europe to have a fully electrified tram system in 1885 which is still in use, with buildings along the Miljacka river that belong to the best examples of Austrian-Hungarian architecture in the city. Those constructions were introduced shortly after the city became part of the Austrian-Hungarian empire: the City Hall, Marijin dvor – Marienhof, building of the Presidency, building of the Naational Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina – Zemaljski muzej, Post office building, palaces, cathedrals…. Hotel Europe in Sarajevo was the first modern hotel established in 1882 on crossroads of Oriental and European Sarajevo, being the classiest place in Sarajevo. It was designed by the Czech architect Karlo Paržik who came in Sarajevo with 26 years of age and where he worked nearly for 60 years. He designed some of the most beautiful buildings and structures of Sarajevo.

When the location of the City Hall of Sarajevo was determined on the right bank of the Miljacka River, the Austrian-Hungarian administration decided necessity of demolishion of two restaurants and a house due to the new contruction. The owner of that particular house was the indigeous Benderija who did not let his house be demolished for any reason. After long negotiations he asked the administration to pay him in golden ducats and transfer his house to the other bank of the Miljacka river, brick by brick. They did it as agreed and ever since this house is called the Spite House – Inat kuća. Many consider it the proof of the Bosnian stubbornness. The Inat kuća was in 1997 turned into the restaurant which serves traditional Bosnian food. In front of the Spite House there is inscription: „I used to be on the other side but moved here for spite.”

Miljacka river is one of the city’s chief geographic features, which flows through the city from east through the center of Sarajevo to west part of city where eventually meets up with the Bosna river. Miljacka river is “the Sarajevo River”, with its source in the town of Pale, several kilometers to the east of Sarajevo. Walking from the Gazi Hüsrevbeg Complex through the old town to the Miljacka river, one observes numerous original restaurants, cafés, and souvenir shops in an area frequented by tourists and locals alike. The Bosna’s source, Vrelo Bosne near Ilidza /west Sarajevo/, is another notable natural landmark and a popular destination for Sarajevo population and tourists. Several smaller rivers and streams also run through the city and its vicinity.

During the violent and insanely complicated Yugoslav wars that followed the break-up of Yugoslavia, Bosnia & Herzegovina was caught in the crossfire between Serb and Croat forces, who had pretty much agreed to half the country between them which culminated in the Siege of Sarajevo. Lasting from 5 April 1992 to 29 February 1996, the Siege was the longest of a capital city in modern warfare. But, despite of all war sufferings, the city of Sarajevo is still changing – and for the better, and buildings have been lovingly restored and foreign investment has restored a very cosmopolitan feel of the city. The fully-renovated national library, which was purposefully bombed during the early stages of the Siege has been finally reopened, and thanks to generous EU funding, it was painstaking rebuilt and the interior is well worth the €2 entrance free.

Miljacka River originates from several springs in the foot of Romanija and Jahorina Mountains, and flows through Sarajevo from the east towards the west. The city of Sarajevo lies at the altitude of 511 meters and is completely surrounded with the Olympic mountains that reach 2000 meters : Bjelašnica, Jahorina, Igman, Treskavica and Trebević Mountains. Jahorina Mountain stretches through the corridor and Gorazde canton, directly to the southeast of Sarajevo, bordering Bjelašnica Mountain. Jahorina Mountain is 1913 meters high, located in the middle of the Sarajevo Olympic mountains. Like the other Sarajevo mountains, Jahorina is a popular ski destination famous for a variety of winter sports facilities and activities. During the 1984 Winter Olympics, Jahorina Mountain was the site of the women’s alpine skiing events while the men’s alpine events were held on Bjelašnica Mountain. Today, Jahorina Mountain is a very popular destination for skiing, hiking, and sledging. Jahorina Mountain features over 40 km of ski tracks, equipped with modern facilities. This region is tucked into one of the most mountainous regions of Bosnia and Herzegovina, lending to its isolation yet creating a warm, welcoming feeling in the small communities in and around the capital Sarajevo. After the Trebevic test cable cars were installed, a first test ride of Sarajevo gondola that connects the Bistrik old part of Sarajevo with the wonderful observation point on Trebevic Mountain, was successfully completed in January 2018. It is anticipated that the 33 cable cabins will be in operation from Sarajevo old part to Trebevic peak, each with ten seats, with a capacity of 1.200 passengers per hour. Instead of 12 minutes, which was needed in past, a new Sarajevo cable car will take visitors to Trebevic in seven minutes and 15 seconds.

Sarajevo epitomizes a partial centuries-old struggle against outside influences combined with the absorption of these influences into one of the most diverse cultures in Europe. Indeed, few places on earth feature an Orthodox and a Catholic church, a mosque and a synagogue within easy walking distance of each other. If there were any city in Europe that effortlessly straddles east and west, it is Sarajevo. In Sarajevo the Byzantine and Ottoman empires of the east and the Roman, Venetian and Austria-Hungarian empires of the west left an indelible mark through culture, traditions and religions that make the city an elegant and cosmopolitan city. Yet, a walk through Bascarija – the historical part of Sarajevo is a walk through its past. From the oriental bustling Ottoman quarters lined with sweet shops, cafes and handicraft workshops, to the administrative and cultural center of the Austria-Hungarian times, Sarajevo encompasses the very best of both worlds. In Sarajevo, people have time for family and friends. It is often said that a man’s wealth here is not measured in his material belongings but rather in his friendships.

In the immediate vicinity of Ilidža there is a nature monument of Vrelo Bosne – source of the Bosnia River, which is reached through a three and a kilometer long centennial alley. The Great Aleja, planted until 1894 with a total of 726 squash and wild chestnut trees, is ideal for walking, cycling and running, running … It is a natural park with its springs and streams, lakes and islets. Vrelo Bosne is a morphological, hydrologic and botanical-horticultural natural phenomenon, one of the most beautiful places in Sarajevo and its surroundings. In the area of ​​Vrelo Bosne there is also the main source of drinking water in the city of Sarajevo – Bačevo. This area, spreading over a surface of 603 hectares, is a habitat for at least 26 different plant communities and 20 animal species, some of which are endemic. Mala Bosna, a stream of six springs from the area of ​​Vrelo Bosne, is a habitat of an indigenous kind of trout trout.

To the northwest of Sarajevo are the settlements of the ancient Bosnian Kingdom, which thrived in towns such as Visoko, Fojnica and Vares in the 14th and the 15th centuries. To the east of Sarajevo the vast canyon leads of the Upper Drina River region – with spectacular nature for all sorts of eco-adventure tours are awaiting nature lovers. The city of Sarajevo is rich in museums, including the Museum of Sarajevo, the Museum of Contemporary Art, the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina /established in 1888/, the Historical Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and the Museum of Literature and Theater Arts of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The city also hosts the National theater of Bosnia and Herzegovina, established in 1919, as well as the Sarajevo Youth Theater. Other cultural institutions include the Center for Sarajevo Culture, Sarajevo City Library, Art Gallery of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and the Bosniak Institute, a privately owned library and art collection focusing on the Bosniak history.